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Video tutorial: Changing the rear brake pads on your motorcycle

We considered it appropriate to complete our tutorial on changing front pads with this little addition dedicated to the rear brake pads. The operation is similar in broad terms, but there are a few subtleties to be aware of, which will prevent you from unpleasant surprises. Grab your socket wrenches, I’ll describe it all to you!

How to change the rear brake pads of your motorcycle?

  1. Gather the tools and stabilize the motorcycle on center stand or workshop stand
  2. Loosen the pad holding pin to release the caliper
  3. Remove the axle from the brake pads, and remove them from the caliper
  4. Clean the inside of the caliper and prepare the new pads
  5. Place the new pads in the caliper then reposition the axle
  6. Replace the caliper on the disc, grease the screws then tighten them
  7. Activate the brake pedal to restart the circuit
  8. Check the brake fluid level

Preparation and disassembly of the rear brake caliper

It all starts with a well-seated motorcycle... Use a workshop stand if your machine does not have a central unit to ensure good stability throughout the handling.
As with the front brake calipers, after removing any cover, start by loosening the pad retaining pin, without removing it yet. Then remove the two rear brake caliper mounting screws. Remove the latter carefully, since in our case, the anti-vibration plate on which the pads rest is mounted on the caliper support (see video). All you have to do is remove the pad holding pin – for good this time! – and they fall into your hands like magic. We hold the right end !

Next step: Cleaning the caliper, preparing the pads and reassembling

As for cleaning the caliper and preparing the pads, i refer you to my “front brake” tutorial, where I detailed these operations in detail.

Once it is ok, put the heat shield plates back on the pads. Then place them in the caliper as originally. Tighten the retaining pin. If the rear brake caliper is floating, take advantage of reassembly to lightly grease the clamping screw bearings. This little manipulation will allow it to slide more easily.
Tighten the two screws as required, i.e. “against” (start of tightening attack) plus a quarter turn. You're almost there.

Yes, before hitting the road again, don't forget to prime the brake fluid circuit, otherwise you might end up braking in the trees premier time! Start by checking the brake fluid level in the rear reservoir (often under the saddle or next to the pedal). Then, happily pump the pedal until you feel some resistance – as usual, in fact.

Of course, a little break-in is required. I invite you once again to consult the front pads tutorial to find more information on this subject. And of course, I remain at your disposal via the comments for any questions 😉

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Riding a motorbike is cool, but what I like best is getting my hands dirty! Since I opened my premier engine, the passion has never left me, and I always have a socket box on hand... At Motoblouz , I am the mechanical expert, and I pass on my knowledge in a series of video tutorials.


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  1. Aviation hoses march 25, 2017 at 11:55 Answer

    After servicing the pads, it's also not bad to upgrade to aviation hoses. You offer a wide choice, which is always very appreciable.
    Thanks for this point, hope it helps people stay safe

  2. gaillard michel march 12, 2017 at 4:26 p.m. Answer

    This tutorial does not work with my 2008 Hornet 600 motorcycle. Impossible to remove the rear screw of the caliper, it is a rod covered with a rubber cap….I am stuck at this stage, although I received my order yesterday

    • Rock march 13, 2017 at 09:45 Answer

      Hello Michel,

      I have just taken stock with Nico, the caliper of your Hornet has a particularity which is that it must tilt on this famous axis covered with rubber, however the disc or the brake hose risks hindering you in this operation.

      We suggest you continue this “troubleshooting” by telephone if you wish. Nicolas can call you, do not hesitate to give us feedback.

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